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Córdoba's Jesuit block, a UNESCO World Heritage site, sits in a city where around 200,000 people study. This Wikivoyage guide covers Argentina's second largest city, known for its colonial heritage, its old university (now the country's second-largest) and cuarteto, perhaps the most popular Argentine Latin pop genre. It has about 2.1 million inhabitants (2022) and is the capital of Córdoba province.
The Cathedral and San Martín Square by night. Photo: Niels Elgaard Larsen, CC BY-SA 4.0.
The city
Córdoba was founded in 1573 by Jerónimo Luis de Cabrera. For its first two centuries it was the largest and most important town in what is now Argentina, until Buenos Aires was declared capital of the Viceroyalty of the Río de la Plata in 1776. The Jesuits founded its university in 1613, and the Catholic Church shaped social life until 1900, earning it the nickname "the Rome of Argentina."
Many call it La Docta for its universities and science institutes. It is the industrial, cultural and commercial center of Central Argentina, between the Pampas and Gran Chaco flatlands to the east and the Sierras de Córdoba hills to the west.
| Moment | What changed |
|---|---|
| 1918 | A student revolution, the Reforma Universitaria, modernized the then conservative and elitist university and spread across Argentina and most of Latin America |
| 1950s | The Perón and Frondizi governments industrialized the city; it became Argentina's second technology hub, behind Buenos Aires, in motor industry, aviation and later software |
| 1969 and 1971 | Two left-wing riots, the Cordobazo and Viborazo, were among the main reasons for the end of the military dictatorship that had governed since 1966 |
| After 1983 | After democratization the formerly conservative city began to open up; a popular culture of comedy, theater and cuarteto emerged |
Today it is a "service metropolis" with advertising agencies, call centers and an IT hub employing more than 10,000 software professionals.
Where to be
The most pleasant areas are Nueva Córdoba, south of the center, and the area around the Cañada, a small colonial canal. Barrio Güemes, an old district where many buildings are protected by municipal laws, has a 19th-century atmosphere like Buenos Aires' San Telmo with more life on the streets, though it has been heavily affected by gentrification. Culture and nightlife centre on downtown and on Güemes, Nueva Córdoba, Cerro de las Rosas and Alta Córdoba.
The guide's climate advice: the best times to visit are March to May and August to November, when it is neither too hot nor too cool and there is little rain. Summer (November to March) is the hot, humid rainy season.
What to see
The original administration building of the university. Photo: User:Cordobes, CC BY-SA 3.0.
- Manzana de los Jesuitas. A block of mostly 17th- and 18th-century Jesuit buildings, the UNESCO site. It holds the Iglesia Compañía de Jesús, built in 1671 and called the oldest standing church in Argentina; the Montserrat School; and the old university building (Ex Rectorado), a Baroque building with a museum and cloister.
- Cathedral and Cabildo, on the west side of Plaza San Martín: the cathedral was built between the 16th and late 18th centuries in Latin American baroque style, partly by Native American craftsmen.
- Other churches: the neo-Gothic Sagrado Corazón, and the Capilla Jesuítica of Quinta Santa Ana, built in 1607 and the oldest chapel in the city.
- Museums: an anthropology and archaeology museum; a natural sciences museum with fossils; a palaeontology museum with material on Darwin and the Beagle's voyage; the Museo de Bellas Artes Evita, in the neo-baroque Palacio Ferreyra; and a memory museum in a former police building behind the Cabildo, where the 1970s–80s dictatorship's local division abducted and tortured citizens.
- Parks: Parque Sarmiento is the most popular, with a zoo, a flower garden and an artificial lake. The Faro del Bicentenario is a lighthouse 1000 km from the sea.
Palacio Ferreyra, home of the Evita art museum. Photo: Leandro A. Martínez, CC BY-SA 4.0.
Parque Sarmiento. Photo: Lcsrns, CC BY-SA 3.0.
Eating
The area around Plaza San Martín is the main tourist precinct by day, but evening eating happens elsewhere; the guide suggests the area around Paseo del Buen Pastor, especially on quiet Sunday and Monday nights. Güemes has mid-range and upscale restaurants, Cerro de las Rosas large ones, and Nueva Córdoba mostly fast food. Expect plenty of parrillas (barbecue restaurants), and a surprising number of Arabic and Mexican places. Choripán, a sandwich of Argentine sausage, is sold at stands inside Parque Sarmiento and near the Suquía river.
Sources
- Wikivoyage, "Córdoba (city, Argentina)," https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/C%C3%B3rdoba_(city%2C_Argentina), licensed CC BY-SA 4.0. Photographs credited to their photographers under CC BY-SA 4.0 and CC BY-SA 3.0. Changed here: condensed and rewritten in hubnx's own words; phone numbers, opening hours, prices and addresses left out.
Lizenz: CC BY-SA 4.0 · Bearbeitet nach en.wikivoyage.org
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