予もいづれの年よりか、片雲の風にさそはれて、漂泊の思ひやまず、海浜にさすらへ
There came a day when the clouds drifting along with the wind aroused a wanderlust in me, and I set off on a journey to roam along the seashores...
The Narrow Road to the Deep North (奥の細道 Oku no Hosomichi) is the title of famed haiku poet **Matsuo Basho'**s most famous work, a poem-filled travelogue through Japan's remote northeastern region of Tohoku.
Understand
One of the most famous travelogues ever, the Narrow Road continues to inspire Japanese art and visitors to Tohoku, and each of the places Basho visited continues to revere his poems and observations.
In Basho's day, the land of Oku (奥), literally "Within", was the back of beyond in Japan, where farmers eked out a meager living and bandits and hermits roamed in the mountains. Well aware of the dangers awaiting him, Basho fully expected to never return, selling his house and preparing a will.
When reading Basho's work, it is important to note that he takes more than a few poetic liberties with the exact route chosen and the sights seen. Fortunately, he traveled for most of the way with fellow poet Sora, whose diary has allowed the reconstruction of the route.
Prepare
Back in 1689 Basho walked the entire distance, starting in late spring and taking over five months (156 days, to be precise) for the entire journey.
Even with the assistance of modern transportation and perfect scheduling (public transport is sparse in this neck of the woods), it would take a month for a whirlwind tour of all visited sights.
Due to Basho's predilection for mountain climbing, a faithful copy of the itinerary can only be done in summer, after the heavy snows of the Sea of Japan coast have melted and the mountains are accessible.
The Route
Basho's original itinerary is as follows, with modern place names or major nearby cities in parentheses where applicable.
Stages 1-2:
Basho starts off from the traditional areas (shitamachi) of Edo, bidding farewell to Ueno and Yanaka — both well worth a visit.
- Stage 3: Soka City, in Saitama Prefecture
- Stage 4: Muro-no-Yashima, Omiwa Shrine in Tochigi
- Stage 5: Nikko
Intriguingly, Basho does not even mention Nikko's largest tourist draw, the extravagant Tokugawa mausoleums. Instead, he climbs Mt. Nikko and visits Futarasan Shrine, dedicated to the mountains' guardian spirits.
- Stages 6-9: Nasu (Kurobane, Unganji, Sesshoseki)
- Stage 10: Shirakawa
- Stage 11: Sukagawa
- Stage 12: Asaka (Fukushima)
- Stage 13: Mount Shinobu
- Stage 14: Sato Shoji
- Stage 15: "Iizuka (飯塚)" in Fukushima
Iizuka (飯塚) was likely a misspelling of Iizaka (飯坂), now Iizaka district of Fukushima
- Stage 16: Kasajima
- Stage 17: Takekuma Shrine, now Takekoma
- Stage 18: Sendai
In Sendai, Basho met with a famous artist, Kaemon, whom he admired. Kaemon showed him some of his favorite places, such as Miyagino (no longer in existence), Mutsu Kokubunji's Yakushido, and Tsutsujigaoka Tenmangu Shrine.
- Stage 19:Tsubo no Ishibumi (Ichikawa)
- Stage 20: Shiogama
Matsuo's chosen route of boarding a boat here for Matsushima remains very popular today.
- Stage 21: Matsushima
The reason he gives for making the trip in the first place, the craggy pine tree islands here are considered one of Japan's Top 3 scenic spots.
- Stage 22: Ishinomaki
- Stage 23: Hiraizumi
Once a capital that rivaled in Kyoto in splendor, today's Hiraizumi has little left except two famous temples — and some famous haiku lamenting the loss penned here by Basho.
- Stage 24: Dewagoe (Naruko)
At this point Basho abandoned the original plan to head all the way north to Aomori and instead decided to head across the mountains. Naruko is now a popular hot spring resort.
The temple of Ryushakuji is quite literally carved out of the mountainside: hence the common name Yamadera, "Mountain Temple".
- Stage 27: Oishida, now sprawled into Obanazawa
- Stage 28: Mogami River
- Stages 29-30: Hagurosan and Gassan (Dewa Sanzan)
The three holy mountains of Dewa Sanzan are the center of worship for the Shinto-Buddhist Shugendo sect and its mountain-climbing yamabushi ascetic monks. Note that Basho only visited Hagurosan and Gassan. He never made it to the third, Yudonosan.
Kisakata was the northernmost place that Basho visited. He was enthusiastic about seeing the lagoon. It was rainy when he arrived and wrote his first poem, but it cleared up the next day and he took a boat to Kanmanji Temple and other islands around Shiogoshi, which he, along with other historic poets, described as being of equal beauty to Matsushima. He went on to write that the difference was that the beauty of Matsushima was cheerful, while the beauty in Shiogoshi was for the lonely and troubled. Unfortunately, the Kisakata Earthquake of 1804 caused the land to raise by 2 meters, eliminating the bay completely. The former bay remains on land today, so you no longer need a boat to reach Kanmanji Temple; you can walk there in about 20 minutes from Kisakata Station.
- Stage 33: The Echigo Road, through (Niigata)
- Stage 34: Ichiburi, Itoigawa
- Stage 35: Kanazawa
- Stage 36-37: Komatsu
In Komatsu, Basho visited w:Nata-dera, a famous temple still visited by many Japanese (but few foreign tourists).
- Stage 38: Daishoji (Kaga)
Basho parts ways with Kawai Sora here, at Yamanaka Onsen.
In Tsuruga, Basho visited the famous Kehi Shrine and stayed at Kanegasaki to observe the full moon. He wrote one of his haiku at Konzenji Temple at the foot of Kanegasaki about the temple's famous bell.
- Stage 42: Ironohama
- Stage 43: Ogaki - there is a small museum for the poet's long journey.
Diverge
Perhaps you'd like to surpass the old poet and actually reach Aomori? Or go even further to what he would have called Ezogashima?
From stage 23, Hiraizumi, pass through Iwate Prefecture.
From stage 32, Kisagata, pass through Akita Prefecture.
The fairly well-connected New Chitose Airport may make a good exit point.
Go
Get in
The starting point of the trip was Tokyo, today served by Haneda & Narita airports.
As the first stretch of the trip has been largely absorbed into urban sprawl, many choose to head straight for Stage 18, Sendai, served by Sendai Airport (with a possible detour to Nikko beforehand).
This route is a long 1000+ kilometer journey: keep visa limits in mind while planning.
Independently
The car is the standard way to travel across Tohoku.
With a Guide
Club Tourism organises a bus tour with an accompanying historical guide.
Stay safe
Cute, but deadly (Photo: LUNA-drops, CC BY 3.0)
The roaming bands of Ainu bandits that Basho feared — but did not encounter — are long since gone. Now the riskiest parts of the trip are inclement weather and the mountain ascents.
Tohoku and Hokuriku is bear country: attacks are uncommon but not unheard of. Thankfully, it is the smaller Asiatic black bear that inhabits Honshu. It may be wise to carry bear bells and bear repellant spray ((熊鈴 kuma-suzu; クマ撃退スプレー kuma gekitai supurē), especially in mountainous and rural areas. If doing the route by foot, bicycle, or motorcycle, practice with the spray before the trip, and store it in an easily-accessible location — it may be seconds before a bear is upon you. Those in cars should remain vigilant as to not crash into a bear on the road.
What tabloids call the murder hornet (Asian giant hornet) is responsible for hundreds of deaths worldwide, both the young and the old, the hearty and the frail. If you are stung, immediately seek medical attention. The Japanese term is "大雀蜂" or osuzumebachi, memorise it!
Go next
The ending point of Ogaki is 30 minutes by rail from Nagoya, a Tokaido Shinkansen stop. Nagoya is home to the Chubu Centrair International Airport. Ogaki is also not so far from Kansai, and it is only a few hours back to Tokyo.
You might also wish to detour to Iga where Basho was born or Otsu on the shores of Lake Biwa, where Basho died in 1694. He is buried in that city at the small temple of Gichu-ji.
Do another of Basho's trips, like the one in Nozarashi Kiko.
Recommended Reading
Narrow Road to the Deep North
- Japanese Wikisource: おくのほそ道
- Oku no Hosomichi (in Japanese)
Sora's Diary
Works of Saigyō Hōshi
Where this page came from
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